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Thread: P0016.. bad timing chain/tensioner???

  1. #1
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    Angry P0016.. bad timing chain/tensioner???

    2009 g8 GT 135k mi stock besides k&n.

    Recently purchased my g8 and have had nothing but check engine light after check engine light. I've replaced the throttle body assembly map sensor installed a catch can and now mad and map sensor pigtails.

    I've been able to get rid of the stability control turning on and off but itself along with the safety mode for the throttle body....

    Now she is throwing a p0016 code along with a c0561..

    Any help would be great I'm hoping it's a bad ckp or wire and not the chain or tensioner...

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    From the lack of response I'm receiving I'm beginning to think I have a one off problem.

    I've done some research and there isn't much info out there on this code, besides people that do cam swaps/ did delete. From what I understand the DTC occurs when the cam and crank sensors do not read relative. In other occurrences it may have to do with oil flow to the actuators for the dod.( Correct me if my understanding is wrong).

    Any input advice or help would be appreciated as I am new to this particular engine and valve train. I am hoping there is an electrical issue and not a tensioner or chain.

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    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Georgia Gt View Post
    From the lack of response I'm receiving I'm beginning to think I have a one off problem.

    I've done some research and there isn't much info out there on this code, besides people that do cam swaps/ did delete. From what I understand the DTC occurs when the cam and crank sensors do not read relative. In other occurrences it may have to do with oil flow to the actuators for the dod.( Correct me if my understanding is wrong).

    Any input advice or help would be appreciated as I am new to this particular engine and valve train. I am hoping there is an electrical issue and not a tensioner or chain.

    Probably not getting a response because there are about 8 active posters now. :-)

    Having all of those problems near the front (MAP/MAF/TB) makes me think you should look at the cam sensor first, on the timing cover. It's possible your sensor is whacked out, either harness or sensor itself. I realize there is a code specifically for the cam, ie not the cam vs crank sensor, but it's the easiest to check first. Visually, at least.

    If your engine still has the AFM hardware in it, the tensioners are known to grenade. So yes, that could be your issue. If you verify that it's caused potentially by an oil to AFM hardware issue, there is a small oil filter in the rear of the valley cover, on the drivers side. That's where the DOD actuator is, and if it's unscrewed, there is a small black plastic filter set down in the threaded boss. If that's clogged, you'll get oiling issue. I would GUESS though, that other things would show up rather than this 0016 code if that were the issue.

    I'm sorry you've had problems. Usually a pretty reliable and straightforward powertrain.
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

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    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    By the way, if you crack the front of the motor, ie timing cover off, you may as well do a cam swap at that time and your mileage. Get the DoD stuff outta there.
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

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    Moderator, Retired -Ray-'s Avatar
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    DTC C0561 is CAN-Bus Invalid Data

    This occurs when the electronic brake control module receives an invalid message from another modules. This should disable TSP and ESP. You cannot clear this DTC. It will clear when the faulty module is replaced. A scan tool is needed to see what module is sending a poor signal.

    P016 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft position correlation.

    I believe this basically means the correlation between the cam and crank is greater than what is programmed. Could be a stretched timing chain, or worn cam gear.
    Rest in Peace Charlie!

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    Just a GT


    Quote Originally Posted by RichsGreyGT View Post
    this site is hardcore modding central.

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    Thanks for replying that's exactly what I needed to get started I'll check the cam sensor up front first then look into the dod actuator next. I just changed the oil with mobile 1 5w30 full synthetic but I read that a clogged oil passage will also cause this.

    Thanks again

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    Checked the cam position sensor and ended up replacing it with no change.. the thing that confuses the he'll out of me is when I reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for a min or so the car has plenty of power as it should. Then after reaching higher rpm it starts to flatten out and lose power from then on.. in other words the ecu isn't realising there is an issue until it reads invalid data from the crank/cam position?

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    It's starting g to look mechanical but I also have not checked the filter in the valley cover either.

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    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Georgia Gt View Post
    It's starting g to look mechanical but I also have not checked the filter in the valley cover either.
    Did you check crank position sensor?
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

  10. #10
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    No it is hidden above the starter motor so it stayed for now but if I'm not mistaken the car wouldn't run with out the crank position.

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