Fuel Leak Issues at Pump

[TooManyHobbies]

Was going to take care of a few issues today so that I can actually drive the car and not have it sit in the garage. One issue I have had is an increasingly strong fuel smell in the cabin after it is parked. The car never set a code, so I did not think it was anything evap related. Today I pulled the cover off the pump to see if I could figure out what was going on. First thing I noticed was that the quick connect fuel line connector was not in alignment with the fitting on the pump. I turned the ignition to run briefly and saw a minor fuel leak from this connector I am pointing at in the first picture.

Ray - was this the type of connector that caused your fire issues?

So, I was attempting to jiggle the connector around a little bit to see if I could get it in better alignment. I was not applying much pressure at all and I heard a SNAP and a hissing. Apparently I broke the plastic fitting on the pump I am pointing to in the second picture. I now have a major fuel leak

Questions:

Do I have to buy a whole new CTS-V pump or is there a way to replace the fitting on the pump with something less brittle?

Any suggestions on a part number to replace the junk plastic quick connect fitting so that this does not happen again?

Current setup is a CTS-V pump with the original Vaporworx controller.

[drumsbh]

I can't view the pics... Sorry to hear the troubles.

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk

[-Ray-]

Yep, that's a Fragola push on connector. Sorry about the fuel pump.

You need to check out Russel.

[TooManyHobbies]

Yep, that's a Fragola push on connector. Sorry about the fuel pump.

You need to check out Russel.

Is this the correct one? http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/64...FQmBswodIL8H2A

[TA427]

Has that snapped at the module end white part or at the fitting within the quick connect ? Depending on what the fitting looks like underneath the module, it may be removeable.as to be able to install a better replacement fitting inside the module, I believe the pump to the inside of that fitting is a shrink type fitting, which is no problem since their are kits for that too, If you can get some pics of the underside, that should bring back some memory as all my spare modules are deep in the attic

[-Ray-]

Is this the correct one? http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/64...FQmBswodIL8H2A

That's the one I used. I have to give credit to Pete for pointing those out to me.

[matts88yj]

I originally ran the push on style until I found out how bad they were and promptly switched over to the thread on style. Since my application was a ton more vibration than the G8 would be, I put a dab of blue locktite on the threads for good measure. Do yourself a favor and switch over any of those push on fittings to the thread on style.

[Carl@Vaporworx]

Sorry to be late to the party.

That is not the correct fitting. For a 3/8" quick connect to AN6 the Russell P/N is 644123. https://www.vaporworx.com/product/fpofgmqcan6/

The OEM plastic body fittings with the plastic retaining clip as shown seem to be fine. There is something not right with the aftermarket aluminum parts such that the retaining clip does not do its job. In May 2013 I observed on a friends car the plastic clip fitting come off at an attachment point just above the headers. If the fuel system did not shut down (it has a VaporWorx controller) and its was not raining, the odds of his AMX burning to the ground would be much higher. The next week I sent, at no charge, every customer that purchased the plastic clip part a new 644123 fitting.

As for the fitting on the module, there is no easy way to fix it. If you are handy and have access to a mill a bulkhead AN6 90* can be modified and fitted to the hat. A barb fitting will also need to be modified and fitted to the bulkhead fitting to accept the underhat flexihose. The hat is not replaceable.

[TooManyHobbies]

Thanks Carl. I think I am going to try to fix my existing pump. I do not like the thought of spending $400 for a new one. Reading the CTS-V forums it seems like that fitting likes to break on pumps that are stock and have never even been removed. Weak design. If I fix it, it will be better than new. I plan on digging my stock fuel pump out of the attic this weekend so I have something to plug the hole while I deal with the CTS-V pump. I do not have a mill, but know someone who has access. Can you give me an idea of the modifications necessary to the bulkhead 90 and the barb?

[STL_G8GT]

Good luck with this, Curt. Seems like a replacement hat would be ideal offering for as many of these that break on folks.