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Thread: Reversing Stock Sub wires.

  1. #1
    Vendors peterg22000's Avatar
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    Default Reversing Stock Sub wires.

    This is in reply to this thread: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=27120

    Quote Originally Posted by Brad View Post
    After playing with all the radio settings and playing different types of music, I could not seem the get that punch that ought to be there (well as much as can be expected for a stock system). It always sounds “off”. I was about to go ahead and pull out the stock stuff like a lot of people have, but I was having one last overview of the system before I spent money on it, but it dawned on me that the “off” sound was like the system was out of phase.

    Well I am happy to report that I have solved the crappy stock stereo mystery (at least on my vehicle). The two subs in the rear deck are out of phase with the speakers driven by the head unit. After doing a quick swap of the wire position on each sub, WOW the system absolutely cranks compared to before.
    This DIY is for those that can't/wont cut and sauder wires while upside down in there trunk.

    Step 1
    Remove rear seat bottom by pulling up in the middle of each seat position



    Step 2
    Using a 13mm socket, remove the two nuts holding the bottom of the seat back in place

    Pull the bottom of the back forward enough to pass the studs, then lift seat to disengage the hooks at the top



    Step 3
    reach in the opening where the seat hook goes through and disengage the Sub wire ( the clip is located where I'm pointing with the mini driver


    Step 4
    swaping the pins is the most difficult part but very do-able even for the less inclined.
    Using a pic or small watch screwdriver pry up the pin lock

    untill it looks like this

    Next with the pin lock that you just released facing up, place the same driver into the end of the terminal and give it a slight pry or giggle while pulling tthat wire, it should pull right out, repeat for for the other wire, then reinsert the wires in the opposite sides and press the pin lock back down


    Step 5
    reverse the process, kinda self explanitory...
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  2. #2
    Senior Member warbird's Avatar
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    Thanks perterg22000, been planning on making the swap to see if it helps.Like this way the best.
    2009 SSM GTS-V, Corsa, Rotofab CAI w/HSRK & Rad Cover, SC Cortex, GXP Front/Rear, CTSV's /PS2's summer, GXP's/RSA's winter, Triple Gauges & Smokers Pack, Sharkfin, Homelink Visor, Gentex Mirror, Weathertech's, Holden Console Lid, 35% window tint, Brembo's/slotted DBA's front & rear, UPR Catchcan
    1996 BR WS6 R/A Trans Am, 1 owner, 18,000 miles, LT4 conv, B&B Triflo, BMR LCA's, BMR Panhard, TA Rear Diff Cover, Hotchkis Strut Brace


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  3. #3
    VIP Member vert's Avatar
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    Did you notice a difference?
    2008 MGM GT. Patrick G spec'd 222/226 .597”/.605” 115LSA +3 cam, Ported TB, Ported Manifold, 25% PB UDP, 180* Tstat, Vararam w/HSRK, Kooks 1 3/4" LT Headers, X w/cats and muffs, GXP Diffuser, B Splitter, 6000K HID's, 6.0L Badges, Tinted Side,Rear Markers and Tails, 15% Window Tint, Blackedout Chrome, Ghost Stripes, G2 Red Calipers

  4. #4
    Vendors peterg22000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vert View Post
    Did you notice a difference?
    it wasn't like wiring in a whole new system, but it there was an improvment. and well worth the time it takes to do this.
    http://forum.grrrr8.net/signaturepics/sigpic219_1.gif
    2009 Phantom Metallic G8 GTS
    Appearance;HSV Fenders | HSV GTS Spoiler | GXP Bumper | GXP Diffuser | HSV Triple Gauges with Dash/Console conversion(First in North America) | HSV GTS Sport Steering Wheel | 20% tint | 6.0 Litre V8 Badges | Blacked out Window & Grill Chrome| V6 door handles | Tinted Tails/Front Side Markers
    Performance; Tuned | Roto Fab CAI | SLP Long tube Headers & PowerFlow axlebacks | Xpipe | DOD Delete | GTO LS2 Cam | Forged Rods & Pistons
    Handling; XA Coilovers | BMR Swaybars | "EXTREMEContact" tires
    Coming soon; Boost!

    12.9199 @ 106mph <old setup, before DOD delete/GTO cam/Forging

  5. #5
    Official Super Member GeoffA's Avatar
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    May tackle this tomorrow and add to the key fob sensor wire at the same time.

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  6. #6
    Junior Member m6speed's Avatar
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    did this today, my car sounds quite a bit better now

  7. #7
    Senior Member firstcherokeekid's Avatar
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    I had to do this as well, but went the solder route. Well worth the effort.
    If it has tits or tires it's bound to be trouble........

  8. #8
    Moderator travis gore's Avatar
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    I have been looking to do this myself. Thanks for posting an alternate way of doing this


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    2009 Karma Metallic G8 GT The best gift you can give to someone is your time,because you're giving them something that you can never get back

  9. #9
    Beyond Help todds87ss's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=peterg22000;441025]
    This DIY is for those that can't/wont cut and sauder wires while upside down in there trunk.

    [QUOTE]

    Cowards...
    Yes for us larger guys that screw can be a pain!

    08 G8 GT, IOM, Rotofab, HSRK, Kooks LTs, track pipes, Custom engine covers, catch can, radiator cover, and tranny tunnel brace. 402hp/396tq - not bad for a bolt -on car.
    8.43 1/8th; 2.01 60' - no skillz.

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  11. #10
    Beyond Help DavesG8GT's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting this! I'm going to try doing this to mine very soon.
    New (cheap monthly payment car, lol): '12 Candy Apple Red Mustang GT 5.0 6MT, stock for the time being

    **SOLD **
    White Hot '09 G8 GT, Pat G tune, Pat G cam (.634"/.608", 223/230, 112 + 2), G8-4-Speed ported & milled heads, "ram air" intake, & ported TB; Reckart 90mm MAF/LS7 card, HSRK, DT headers, Rotofab, Magnaflow CB, H & R springs, stock gears & stock stall, 11.865 @ 120.32 mph, 1.941 sec 60'

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