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Thread: Capped Helmholtz chamber (Drone Eliminator)

  1. #301
    VIP Member pir4te's Avatar
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    Default Capped Helmholtz chamber (Drone Eliminator)

    Quote Originally Posted by BuildItYourSelf View Post
    Yeah it does. Thanks.
    When reading up on the theory behind it all seem to show the round ball and mentions the critical aspect being the neck. But they also seem to be for compressors and flow of gas. Almost like a cushion chamber in a water line.
    I took this route a few years ago, it was pointed out to me that technically it is not a helmholtz bottle but a 1/4 wave resonator.
    Compression is King. Race-built VVT brawler hauler with Stingray tune.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pir4te View Post
    I took this route a few years ago, it was pointed out to me that technically it is not a helmholtz bottle but a 1/4 wave resonator.
    Well that explains that. Haha
    That's why I was confused when the calculations didn't mention volume and neck.
    2008 GT-M. PBM, #885

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    Default Capped Helmholtz chamber (Drone Eliminator)

    Quote Originally Posted by BuildItYourSelf View Post
    Well that explains that. Haha
    That's why I was confused when the calculations didn't mention volume and neck.
    Haha, yeah I got caught up with the cryptic mystique of the science until I came to the same issue with fitting.
    First I cut to length and bend around either side of wheel well, same dia as pipe. This worked well but really interfered with the LFE / sub, exhaust rumble (feel) sound spectrum was spooky and unnatural like al-jinn was loose from his lamp. ie although the magical genie killed the drone the bastrd also killed my bass and neutered my rumble!
    So ripped the bottles out, downsized the dia 2.5 -> 2.0" installed exact same location and surprise!! The volume (amplitude) of the cancellation frequency was lower.
    FWIW story has an even happier ending - picked up a pair of bi-modal rear mufflers from an HSV and no drone, stock quiet / scary loud with blip of remote.
    Last edited by pir4te; 02-08-2016 at 01:30 PM.
    Compression is King. Race-built VVT brawler hauler with Stingray tune.

    Supernaturally as-pirated, all-alcohol, all-motor.

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    You gotta remember I'm just an OLD (71) Mississippi redneck without much book-learning knowledge, so high-fangled theories and esoteric names go right over my head. Spelling Helmholtz was a major accomplishment for me, much less gettin' the dang thing to work. They still talk about that bent pipe down at the barbershop.
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    Holy thread revival!
    RIP Charlie, The GRRRR8 One


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    I appreciate you referring to this as a "Holy Thread". That's better than being a "sticky".
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    Quote Originally Posted by pir4te View Post
    Haha, yeah I got caught up with the cryptic mystique of the science until I came to the same issue with fitting.
    First I cut to length and bend around either side of wheel well, same dia as pipe. This worked well but really interfered with the LFE / sub, exhaust rumble (feel) sound spectrum was spooky and unnatural like al-jinn was loose from his lamp. ie although the magical genie killed the drone the bastrd also killed my bass and neutered my rumble!
    So ripped the bottles out, downsized the dia 2.5 -> 2.0" installed exact same location and surprise!! The volume (amplitude) of the cancellation frequency was lower.
    FWIW story has an even happier ending - picked up a pair of bi-modal rear mufflers from an HSV and no drone, stock quiet / scary loud with blip of remote.
    Can you elaborate on the bimodal setup. What year is your car?

  9. #308
    VIP Member pir4te's Avatar
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    Default Capped Helmholtz chamber (Drone Eliminator)

    Quote Originally Posted by 6 litre View Post
    Can you elaborate on the bimodal setup. What year is your car?
    Yes, is a straight through 2.5" cat back with an x-pipe at calculated position above and slightly behind the underbody brace. That gets rid of most of the unwanted harmonics actually.
    The rear cans are take-offs from an E Series HSV, readily available on eBay AU or via speed shops here for ~$300 AUD. These have chamber valves with bladder diaphragm like old EGR / advance or blow-off actuators. Good for constant duty vs servo motor.
    Controller is Mild2Wild DIY NPP, cost US$200 although there are a few good alternatives on the market now including Forza for less than US$100. Basically run a vacuum line from engine bay to the controller in the boot that opens and shuts exhaust flaps. Either on or off really, the concept that you adjust partially open doesn't make sense with proper Bimodal chambers. See it's either straight through bypass or with valve flaps shut exhaust runs through the sports muffler.
    In practice I have the flaps shut 95% of driving, because I drive ~100 miles a day. If it was a dyno queen or weekender likely the other way around.
    Check the MildtoWild NPP info which shows connection point for the vacuum hose and best place to run power for the controller's solenoid wire.
    Can provide more detail if needed.
    Car is 2011 model Sportwagon variant, same everything basically.
    Last edited by pir4te; 12-21-2016 at 12:47 PM.
    Compression is King. Race-built VVT brawler hauler with Stingray tune.

    Supernaturally as-pirated, all-alcohol, all-motor.

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    VIP Member GXPaycheck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigRed585Lbs View Post
    I appreciate you referring to this as a "Holy Thread". That's better than being a "sticky".
    It's the thread that keeps on giving!
    RIP Charlie, The GRRRR8 One


    [SIZE="2"][COLOR="Red"]

    2009 G8 GXP, #715 0f 1829 (one of 38 as optioned), MSM, M6, Sunroof, Onyx/Red (sold)
    2009 G8 GXP, #807 of 1829, MSM, A6, sunroof
    2016 Chevy SS, Mystic Green, roof, spare, #555 of 2221.




    You can push the envelope, but it's still stationery

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    That it is Eddie!

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